So believe it or not (I'm still in denial myself) in less than 2 hrs I'll be leaving the land of spectacular Ottoman and Roman architecture, swimming in the Adriatic Sea and 50 cent beers...back to reality.
My final days in Croatia were amazing.... after a few days of the good life with my family. Complete with a day trip to Montenegro to see the mountains that just fall into the sea--so cool! Of course our visit to the mountain village of 4 goats and a church to enjoy the local delicacy of ham and cheese with the only other choice being cheese and ham. It was fun and good thing Mark was around as I managed to dance in the ocean with a sea urchin and he was able to extract the spines with the help from his assistant Donna who provided wine as my anesthesia.
Hallie and Fiona (my Aussie friends) managed to cross 4 countries in 2 days and they arrived in Dubrovnik in time before I had to head East. We had some great days on the beach with "lilo's" or rafts in American dialect. After talking up Bosnia I convinced them to join me for the last two days of my trip as I returned to Sarajevo to pick up my flight. So the three of us jumped in their van (bought in Ireland) so right hand drive now on the right side of the road. A very interesting experience for riding shotgun... although I have to admit they have pretty sweet setup. With a futon in the back and bikes strapped onto the back door. I'll be posting pics of this one for sure! Anyways all was good until we go to cross the boarder into Bosnia and let's just say the control was not so impressed by their insurance papers, however nothing 30 Euros and a smile couldn't fix. So there we were sun setting in Croatia... still in our bathers and eating Bosnia lollies on the border while he filled out the Bosnian Insurance pass...sure!
We have spent the last few days cruising the Bosnian countryside... buying delicious fruit on the side of the road and enjoying the life here. We arrived into Sarajevo yesterday and they fell in love with this city and Hotel Hollywood as much as I. Shhh just don't tell reception there are actually 3 of us in the room. Alas all good things must come to an end... and our last van adventure will be to the airport in just a few hrs. Ok I'm off to have my last Sarajevo espresso... so good this I will really miss!
talk so everyone from home...
thanks for following my adventures and keeping me company while I was on the road.
I'll post pictures soon!
xoxo,
Morgan
email me
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Monday, July 23, 2007
sobe? sobe!
Well if you have spent anytime in Croatia you know exactly what I am talking about, but if not let me tell you....
When you get off any boat or bus you are all of a sudden attacked by several old women with mustaches and glossy photos of their apartments ready to bring you home. Pretty similar to Bosnia or Greece except here we are in the peak of tourist season and once they find out you are one person looking for a room and only planning on staying one night that is it they throw you to the curb like last week's borack (yummy filo dough stuffed with cheese and meat). As this time of year there are more of me... tired and sweaty backpackers than rooms available.
So on the first island of Korčula I avoided this predicament as there was a hostel and the guy there was happy to sell me a bed for the night (mind you it was 6 of us to a room the size of a walk in closet with no ac) but I didn't really notice as I befriended three Irish girls that after a day swimming from our island to the neighboring ones in the most amazing blue blue water (with our flip flops of course) as there are sea urchins to avoid. The rumors about the Irish are true, and they took me down with the ship. As the last time I remember drinking cocktails out of a bucket it was a moon party in Thailand and well you can figure out the rest.
So after 3 days of reliving my freshman year spring break trip to Cancun I decided to hop on the next ferry to the island which has an amazing salt water lake in the middle with an old monastery built on an island in the middle. Very quiet....lots of hiking and not only did I finish my book but I'm very well versed on traveling in Slovenia, just in case I get the chance in the near future to travel there(as that was the only chapter of my lonely planet I had not read). I loved it there really... once I had sorted out a place to stay. The guy at the tourist office/car rental/mini market laughed at me when I told him I was looking for a room for one person. Although Tibi was there with me the whole time (on the phone at least) not much he could do from Romania, but he made me laugh nonetheless.
Eventually I convinced an old man to take me in... although there were quite a few bugs, the bathroom was well (if Julie were here she would have gone without a shower), and I woke up to a rooster not just crowing but pecking at my window. Let's just say I spent more time outside than in and am pretty happy today to be back in Dubrovnik.
I hope all is well with you guys... in just about a week I'll be heading home, but first I'll have some family time as my aunt and uncle are coming through Dubrovnik tomorrow and then I'll be catching up with Hallie and Fiona from Australia before heading to Sarajevo to pick up my flight.
How are you? write me!
When you get off any boat or bus you are all of a sudden attacked by several old women with mustaches and glossy photos of their apartments ready to bring you home. Pretty similar to Bosnia or Greece except here we are in the peak of tourist season and once they find out you are one person looking for a room and only planning on staying one night that is it they throw you to the curb like last week's borack (yummy filo dough stuffed with cheese and meat). As this time of year there are more of me... tired and sweaty backpackers than rooms available.
So on the first island of Korčula I avoided this predicament as there was a hostel and the guy there was happy to sell me a bed for the night (mind you it was 6 of us to a room the size of a walk in closet with no ac) but I didn't really notice as I befriended three Irish girls that after a day swimming from our island to the neighboring ones in the most amazing blue blue water (with our flip flops of course) as there are sea urchins to avoid. The rumors about the Irish are true, and they took me down with the ship. As the last time I remember drinking cocktails out of a bucket it was a moon party in Thailand and well you can figure out the rest.
So after 3 days of reliving my freshman year spring break trip to Cancun I decided to hop on the next ferry to the island which has an amazing salt water lake in the middle with an old monastery built on an island in the middle. Very quiet....lots of hiking and not only did I finish my book but I'm very well versed on traveling in Slovenia, just in case I get the chance in the near future to travel there(as that was the only chapter of my lonely planet I had not read). I loved it there really... once I had sorted out a place to stay. The guy at the tourist office/car rental/mini market laughed at me when I told him I was looking for a room for one person. Although Tibi was there with me the whole time (on the phone at least) not much he could do from Romania, but he made me laugh nonetheless.
Eventually I convinced an old man to take me in... although there were quite a few bugs, the bathroom was well (if Julie were here she would have gone without a shower), and I woke up to a rooster not just crowing but pecking at my window. Let's just say I spent more time outside than in and am pretty happy today to be back in Dubrovnik.
I hope all is well with you guys... in just about a week I'll be heading home, but first I'll have some family time as my aunt and uncle are coming through Dubrovnik tomorrow and then I'll be catching up with Hallie and Fiona from Australia before heading to Sarajevo to pick up my flight.
How are you? write me!
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Crossing the Border into Paradise....
So after three weeks of my intense Holocaust and genocide tour through Europe I am officially on vacation. Together with the Argentinians (two nice Jewish boys from Buenos Aries I befriended at the conference that I am having a blast with and make me laugh no matter where we are). We hit up Mostar (amazing city not far from the the border famous for its fantastic bridge)... we definitely confused this lovely Muslim woman who took us into her home for the night as we were all happy to share one room (I an unmarried woman traveling with two unmarried men who were not my brothers)...but by the end of our stay we were eating ice cream together and laughing.
From Mostar we were back on the bus and arrived on Monday to Dubrovnik. For those of you who have yet to set foot into this magical city, run don't walk as fast as you can! It is surrounded by ancient walls and an ocean so turquoise you don't believe its real until you are swimming...
Our days are full of sunning, swimming and ice cream of course! Not to mention running into the new Chabad here. They set up 3 weeks ago and were tried to convince the boys to lay teffilin right there in the town center in their swimsuits. They have invited us for shabbat, but I'm not sure if I'll be here on a Friday night... we'll see.
Although it was last night that will truly stay in my memory for ever. We had the luck to be here during the Libertad Festival and Emanuel (one of the boys) noticed that the famous Michel Camilo and Tomatito were playing together (a rare duo) of Jazz and Flamenco. There we were in the standing seats (10 bucks!)... which actually translated into sitting at the foot of the piano in the Rectors Palace (a 15th century building). The acoustics were amazing and the ambiance was something you could not replicate anywhere else. Fantastico!
So after a great few days with the boys we part ways tomorrow morning as I head to the island of Korčula. Known for making some of the best desert wines in Croatia and great olive oil. Not to mention fabulous beaches. Stay tuned.....
I miss you all.... but am having a blast.
Email me!
From Mostar we were back on the bus and arrived on Monday to Dubrovnik. For those of you who have yet to set foot into this magical city, run don't walk as fast as you can! It is surrounded by ancient walls and an ocean so turquoise you don't believe its real until you are swimming...
Our days are full of sunning, swimming and ice cream of course! Not to mention running into the new Chabad here. They set up 3 weeks ago and were tried to convince the boys to lay teffilin right there in the town center in their swimsuits. They have invited us for shabbat, but I'm not sure if I'll be here on a Friday night... we'll see.
Although it was last night that will truly stay in my memory for ever. We had the luck to be here during the Libertad Festival and Emanuel (one of the boys) noticed that the famous Michel Camilo and Tomatito were playing together (a rare duo) of Jazz and Flamenco. There we were in the standing seats (10 bucks!)... which actually translated into sitting at the foot of the piano in the Rectors Palace (a 15th century building). The acoustics were amazing and the ambiance was something you could not replicate anywhere else. Fantastico!
So after a great few days with the boys we part ways tomorrow morning as I head to the island of Korčula. Known for making some of the best desert wines in Croatia and great olive oil. Not to mention fabulous beaches. Stay tuned.....
I miss you all.... but am having a blast.
Email me!
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Sarajevo
Who new there was so much interest my travel blog? thanks everyone-- I'm glad to hear that my adventures on the road entertain those of you stuck behind the computer. Well I'm back online again. The past week has been a humbling experience. To be here walking the streets with the scars and burns from the recent conflict so fresh is crazy. Although the Bosnian people are amazing and quite resilient. They have painted over the shelled exterior walls of their homes, come closer to the Muslim faith they were persecuted for and continue to rebuild this city and their lives everyday.
Yesterday I presented my paper on an education panel together with a Professor from the University from Sarajevo who spoke about the painful process of trying to standardize their experience and attempt to teach it in the schools. After hearing testimony from those younger than I, who lost family, friends and had treacherous stories about escaping to the UN protected zone...woah.
As well as connecting with so many of my former professors from Clark and Deakin I have made some really amazing lifelong friends. The theater students who leave today for Rwanda, the Clark grad student Tibi who on the long bus rides we entertain each other with stories about Worcester and makes me laugh even in such a dark setting, and the Bosnian students who come from such diverse backgrounds and are so eager and open to share their most personal experiences. This conference has been more than I ever expected.
But have no fear, we did see more of Sarajevo than the inside of the conference center and mass grave sites. By day we learn of the tragedy, but by night we learned about the life.
Standing outside for a beautiful concert of Ottoman music and a performance of whirling dervishes the rain started and we thought that we might not last long, but in a matter of minutes the people around us invited each one of us under their umbrellas and the dervishes whirled the rain away. It was magical! Following the performance we joined the dispersed crowd in a local bar and got introduced to the sliverich.... AKA plum brandy-- do they even have this in the states?
I can't say that I have gotten alot of sleep this week, but I move into the next phase of my trip with a warm feeling in my heart and soul about the 400 other people in the world who share my perspective that there is a chance humanity can change for the better....
Tomorrow morning I leave early in the morning for the coast and onto Croatia. Let vacation officially begin!
I love getting the notes from home and all the places I once called home... it makes me feel like you are all here with me. Keep writing me!
xox Morgan
Yesterday I presented my paper on an education panel together with a Professor from the University from Sarajevo who spoke about the painful process of trying to standardize their experience and attempt to teach it in the schools. After hearing testimony from those younger than I, who lost family, friends and had treacherous stories about escaping to the UN protected zone...woah.
As well as connecting with so many of my former professors from Clark and Deakin I have made some really amazing lifelong friends. The theater students who leave today for Rwanda, the Clark grad student Tibi who on the long bus rides we entertain each other with stories about Worcester and makes me laugh even in such a dark setting, and the Bosnian students who come from such diverse backgrounds and are so eager and open to share their most personal experiences. This conference has been more than I ever expected.
But have no fear, we did see more of Sarajevo than the inside of the conference center and mass grave sites. By day we learn of the tragedy, but by night we learned about the life.
Standing outside for a beautiful concert of Ottoman music and a performance of whirling dervishes the rain started and we thought that we might not last long, but in a matter of minutes the people around us invited each one of us under their umbrellas and the dervishes whirled the rain away. It was magical! Following the performance we joined the dispersed crowd in a local bar and got introduced to the sliverich.... AKA plum brandy-- do they even have this in the states?
I can't say that I have gotten alot of sleep this week, but I move into the next phase of my trip with a warm feeling in my heart and soul about the 400 other people in the world who share my perspective that there is a chance humanity can change for the better....
Tomorrow morning I leave early in the morning for the coast and onto Croatia. Let vacation officially begin!
I love getting the notes from home and all the places I once called home... it makes me feel like you are all here with me. Keep writing me!
xox Morgan
Sunday, July 8, 2007
heading south.....
So the sun finally caught up with me and the weather has been gorgeous here in Krakow. However, my days of roaming city streets are on pause. As Friday I met up with my conference and the games have begun. We had a fantastic tour of Jewish Krakow with one of the handful of Krakow's Jews left here today... concluding the tour at the Remuh Synagogue. There we joined the few members of today's community for the friday night service. To be honest the melodies were pretty different and the women who joined me behind the mehitzah attempted to help me follow along. Although, as we came to the familiar lecha do di and we all turned to welcome in the shabbat bride I could feel the spirit of those who prayed in the synagogue for centuries before me come through the crumbling, but beautiful doorway. What a tribute to this once flourishing community to have spent shabbat here and increased (maybe 6x) the current minyan with our group.
The conference itself has been amazing-- so much to absorb and so many fantastic people. I've befriended a group of theater students from LA who work in Rwanda with trauma therapy theater with the survivors of the genocide (Beth and Lydia you would both love the work they do!) Both today and yesterday we were at Auschwitz and Birkenau... the most famous scholars on my side examining history, memory and discussing the future of genocide prevention. For those of you who know of Deborah Lipstadt and her trial with Holocaust denier David Irving you can appreciate what a learning experience it was to walk along side her while she shared with me the details of the case and how the steps and door leading into the gas chambers proved as significant pieces in her trial. I have learned so much!
Tomorrow morning as the sun rises over Krakow I will be saying good-bye and continuing south to part II of the conference in Sarajevo. I hope all is good on your side of the world and I'll try and write again soon.
Don't forget to email me!
The conference itself has been amazing-- so much to absorb and so many fantastic people. I've befriended a group of theater students from LA who work in Rwanda with trauma therapy theater with the survivors of the genocide (Beth and Lydia you would both love the work they do!) Both today and yesterday we were at Auschwitz and Birkenau... the most famous scholars on my side examining history, memory and discussing the future of genocide prevention. For those of you who know of Deborah Lipstadt and her trial with Holocaust denier David Irving you can appreciate what a learning experience it was to walk along side her while she shared with me the details of the case and how the steps and door leading into the gas chambers proved as significant pieces in her trial. I have learned so much!
Tomorrow morning as the sun rises over Krakow I will be saying good-bye and continuing south to part II of the conference in Sarajevo. I hope all is good on your side of the world and I'll try and write again soon.
Don't forget to email me!
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Powitanie do Warszawy
So after 2 buses, 2 flights, a train, another bus, and a taxi I made it..... A very long 14 hr travel day (check out my route). When I arrived into the airport the passport control guy actually said "back again? did you forget something?" No I replied I just like visiting your country....I guess they are starting to recognize me around here... or maybe they just remember the commotion my group of 23 students made when we were here in March... this is a very different trip from Shalhevet!
You would think that getting to Lodz (actually a pretty major town in Poland) would be easy...think again. Lodz (pronounced Woodge) and believe me if you mispronounce it nobody has a clue where or what you are talking about. With the help of a lovely woman who spoke Esperanto (for those of you who are not familiear, it was created in the late 1870's as a universal language to foster peace and international understanding) no I'm not making this up... google it! So my new friend at the bus station Gabriella a beautiful woman in probably her late 70s and I had a very nice conversation.... I speaking in Spanish and her in Esperanto-- we did pretty well. She really liked my backpack. I on the other hand am pretty much ready to toss it out of a moving train. Whose idea was it to bring all these books anyways!
So why did I go to Lodz you ask? What a fantastic Jewish history lesson. Lodz was once the second to Warsaw largest Jewish Community in Europe. There is so much that remains... including a small Jewish community. Who would have thought that I could eat lunch at a Kosher restaurant. Not to mention having the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe still standing -- with these mausoleums that look like shrines to King Tut. Don't worry I didn't go far without bumping into a couple from Berkeley there doing family history research...they never knew about HCNC (classic) and they are thrilled to start coming to our film series next year. Don't worry Leslie I've always got a business card on hand.
It's not only familiar Jews I have run into. Sure enough on the train into Warsaw (the first time) I met up with an Aussie who shares friends in common from my capoeria days in Melbourne. She is alot of fun (as most Aussies are) and we have been having a good time here in Warsaw. Ok so that is it for now. I'm going to rest up before my day in the archives tomorrow and of course the big AJC reception I've been invited to tomorrow. You know because I can speak to their delegation who is in town about Shalhevet. Good thing I have my conference gear with me and I won't show up looking like the backpacker I am pretending to be....
I hope everyone is having a great 4th of July... full of BBQ-ing in the sun and the such. I had polish dumplings under grey raining skies this afternoon. Not very patriotic I know...
ciao ciao,
Morgan
Email me!
You would think that getting to Lodz (actually a pretty major town in Poland) would be easy...think again. Lodz (pronounced Woodge) and believe me if you mispronounce it nobody has a clue where or what you are talking about. With the help of a lovely woman who spoke Esperanto (for those of you who are not familiear, it was created in the late 1870's as a universal language to foster peace and international understanding) no I'm not making this up... google it! So my new friend at the bus station Gabriella a beautiful woman in probably her late 70s and I had a very nice conversation.... I speaking in Spanish and her in Esperanto-- we did pretty well. She really liked my backpack. I on the other hand am pretty much ready to toss it out of a moving train. Whose idea was it to bring all these books anyways!
So why did I go to Lodz you ask? What a fantastic Jewish history lesson. Lodz was once the second to Warsaw largest Jewish Community in Europe. There is so much that remains... including a small Jewish community. Who would have thought that I could eat lunch at a Kosher restaurant. Not to mention having the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe still standing -- with these mausoleums that look like shrines to King Tut. Don't worry I didn't go far without bumping into a couple from Berkeley there doing family history research...they never knew about HCNC (classic) and they are thrilled to start coming to our film series next year. Don't worry Leslie I've always got a business card on hand.
It's not only familiar Jews I have run into. Sure enough on the train into Warsaw (the first time) I met up with an Aussie who shares friends in common from my capoeria days in Melbourne. She is alot of fun (as most Aussies are) and we have been having a good time here in Warsaw. Ok so that is it for now. I'm going to rest up before my day in the archives tomorrow and of course the big AJC reception I've been invited to tomorrow. You know because I can speak to their delegation who is in town about Shalhevet. Good thing I have my conference gear with me and I won't show up looking like the backpacker I am pretending to be....
I hope everyone is having a great 4th of July... full of BBQ-ing in the sun and the such. I had polish dumplings under grey raining skies this afternoon. Not very patriotic I know...
ciao ciao,
Morgan
Email me!
Sunday, July 1, 2007
Auf Wiedersehen Berlin... next stop Poland
Do you know what time the sun sets in Berlin in the middle of the summer? 10:30! who knew and what an unexpected surprise. There I was yesterday enjoying my book in the park in the sunshine of what seemed like the middle of the day, but no by then it was already 7:30. Its amazing... it does not take much to impress me:)
Most of the day was actually spent in the suburb of Wannsee... where the infamous house of the Wannsee Conference stands. The town reminded me much of Sausalito with yacht clubs and people enjoying lunch at lakeside cafes. The area I learned was not only home to this significant conference, but a resort town for many of the SS and high ranking Nazis... you should see some of these mansions! How and why they chose a place so calm and picturesque to plan for the total destruction of European Jewry is beside me. Anyways enough Holocaust talk....
Today I happened upon a lovely art fair right alongside what remains of the Berlin Wall. Mom you would have loved it.... really creative photography.
Early tomorrow morning I am off... it will be my day of planes, trains and automobiles. I am attempting to reach the town of Lodz by tomorrow evening where I have booked into a Bed and Breakfast recommended by the Lonely Planet travel blog.... I don't think it will quite be a Napa resort, but let's see shall we. It seems to be a bit better than the run down hotels I have found online that have not had a face lift since the Iron Curtain came down.
Thanks everyone for the notes... I'll try and write more in Warsaw... as I recall the internet is surprisingly accessible there and I should have some more down time.
missing you all... and thanks for reading!
Email me!
Most of the day was actually spent in the suburb of Wannsee... where the infamous house of the Wannsee Conference stands. The town reminded me much of Sausalito with yacht clubs and people enjoying lunch at lakeside cafes. The area I learned was not only home to this significant conference, but a resort town for many of the SS and high ranking Nazis... you should see some of these mansions! How and why they chose a place so calm and picturesque to plan for the total destruction of European Jewry is beside me. Anyways enough Holocaust talk....
Today I happened upon a lovely art fair right alongside what remains of the Berlin Wall. Mom you would have loved it.... really creative photography.
Early tomorrow morning I am off... it will be my day of planes, trains and automobiles. I am attempting to reach the town of Lodz by tomorrow evening where I have booked into a Bed and Breakfast recommended by the Lonely Planet travel blog.... I don't think it will quite be a Napa resort, but let's see shall we. It seems to be a bit better than the run down hotels I have found online that have not had a face lift since the Iron Curtain came down.
Thanks everyone for the notes... I'll try and write more in Warsaw... as I recall the internet is surprisingly accessible there and I should have some more down time.
missing you all... and thanks for reading!
Email me!
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