awaiting my flight back to reality...

Well as I sit here in Lima under overcast skies... I regret nothing about this trip except the hours I must spend here awaiting the inevitable flight back to reality. The last few days of my travels are full of colorful experiences that will be hard to forget. Let me share with you a few...

A last minute change to my itinerary brought me to the Bolivian boarder where I explored for a few days Lake Titicaca: the world's highest navigable lake in the world clocking in at 3,830 meters! (there is a fun jeopardy fact for ya).
Anyways instead of just cruising the lake I thought I'd go for the full experience and stay overnight on one of the inhabited islands.

So I joined a group that made this all happened and for 2 days I ate, slept, danced and lived with this beautiful family... who spoke no English and only limited Spanish (a Quechua speaking community) that lives a very peaceful life with no electricity or running water. What was a few more days of strengthening my quads with a squat toilet right? The photos attached are of sunset at the top of Pachamama and one of the many beautiful children running around the island trying to sell you a variety of different things for "un sole... un sole".
I knew that when I made my travel plans I would have an extra day in Puno... but at the time I didn't know why. Although as I have learned from experience everything in life happens for a reason. For those of you who know me well know that it's the boys whose first language is not English and have a different color passport if not religion than mine, tend to always catch my eye. Well sure enough lightening strikes again... this time in Puno.

We met on the boat out to the Islands and the next few days we spent together in the area were fantastic. Dwight... a recent graduate of a University in Cuzco in tourism explored not only the Lake with me, but yesterday the mountain area surrounding the lake as well. However, this time by motorbike (for all those parental units reading... don't worry we are back safe and sound... I know after Australia I said I'd never do the motorbike thing again, but it was a hard invitation to resist).

Anyways my last days in Puno were spent salsa dancing and getting to know many of the locals. Not to mention improving my Spanish. Dwight even represented me well as I picked up some last minute items at the tapestry market... cheaper than I would have ever gotten myself. And for those of your who have shopped in markets with me before know I can bargain like the best of them, but I guess the local angle is one I've never had:) So have no fear... no visa research is in the works or anything like that. It was great getting to know him, but no plans for the future.

So that is pretty much the last chapter of this adventure. In about 12 hrs I depart for the states and if I'm lucky this last piece will be uneventful. I'll be posting more pictures soon!
And if you can't tell from the posts... if you are thinking of a holiday recommendation. I highly recommend Peru!

I'd love to read a note from you during my layover in Miami... write me!

The top 10 experiences from our Inca Trail adventure!

If you have ever considered trekking in Peru, it must be the Inca Trail! There is no other way to go than with Llama Path. Here´s why....

The top 10 experiences from our Inca Trail adventure
By Morgan and Becca

10. Waking up to a porter asking you what kind of tea you would like while still in ¨bed¨(aka tent).

9. Coming back from a 16 km hike to your birdbath (a warm bucket of water, soap and towel) not to mention the tent is already set up and your sleeping bag is already rolled out. Followed by a ¨happy hour¨of hot chocolate, freshly popped popcorn and banana fritters!

8. Following the spiritual path that leads to Machu Pichu scattered with Inca ruins built by the Incas in the 15th Century (80% of the original stone still intact).

7. Arriving in camp after 11 hours of hiking and being greeted by 20 porters (aged 19-59) clapping and giving you high 5´s....who by the way each carry 55 lbs. The porters are outfitted by Llama Path (which is not the norm) and come from 2 specific Quechua communities that are in great need of financial support. These men take more pride in their works than most people we know (non-profit colleagues included).

6. Day 2-- the most challenging and rewarding of all as we summited Dead Woman´s Pass (13,779 ft) and Runkuakay (13,123 ft) --the two us by the way reach the top of BOTH in the first third of the group (who knew we were in such good shape!)

5. Enjoying each day and every meal with three courses of gourmet food prepared by ¨Cesar the Great¨ (aka our chef, who also doubles as a porter as someone has to carry the ¨kitchen¨). Cesar had amazing presentation and always had special consideration for not only the two veggies (2 boys from the Bay Area aged 13 and 15) and the lactose intolerant co-hiker Andy, who always had his special soup prepared dairy free!
A sample menu:
Pancakes with an artistic drizzle of dolce de leche, pasta with a choice of marinara or cream of mushroom, a variety of soups ranging from asparagus to the local quinoa (always accompanied by a garnish of pico de gallo), local trout caught in the river we crossed on day 1, and our personal favorite had to be the bananas flambe cooked table side by Cesar in a chef hat and head lamp.

4. The secret to our hiking success was: do as the locals do! Each day we started by stuffing our cheeks full of coca leaves with all kinds of super powers. Anyone have a suggestion on smuggling them back into the states? Becca has a marathon coming up and the coca leaves might really make a difference!

3. Weaving our way through the lush Andean mountains with our amiga, the snow capped mt. Veronica, always in sight. Not to mention our toned quads... well shaped from kilometers of downhill hikes and steps and squatting at Turkish toilets throughout the Andes.

2. We are still not sure if there were more stars in the sky or bites on our legs...certainly both very memorable.

1. Arriving to Machu Pichu at sunrise through the sungate (while the majority of visitors arrived cleanly shaven via the bus or train) with 45 km in the bag. "Piece of cake" as our fearless leader and brilliant guide Alex (5'1 Andean Man) always said as he marked his 81st trek on the Camino Inca with us.

Bonus experience: The Incan massage we treated ourselves to the day we returned complete with hot rocks!

These are just a few of the highlights of our spiritual journey of 4 days and 3 nights that nor words or pictures will ever give justice to the foggy mountains, rain, sun and magic that happened along the trail.

español para los beginers… no más

How am I am improving my Spanish on a daily basis you ask? Well the best way possible...making new friends everywhere I go.

So first it was the taxi driver in Lima... on my way back to the airport where I met Becca. I convince him with my new found confidence in Spanish that I should not be charged the tourist price to the airport, but that of a local. Well I don´t want to pretend that I got a local price, but we were laughing about the traffic and whatnot after just a few minutes. As for Lima I was again not so impressed with this crazy hectic smoggy city....but I´ll give it one more try on my last day in Peru.

Becca and I arrived to sunny and beautiful Cusco and checked into our hotel. Los Niños its called is run by a Dutch woman who uses the proceeds to support local children... we have become very familiar with the cause as the children´s house is directly across from our room and I am learning new Spanish words everyday as they play in the courtyard. An amazing cause that I highly recommend for all those that visit Cusco.

After a day we decided to skip town and head to Pisaq ... a small town nestled in the Sacred Valley. I introduced Becca the world of Peruvian public transportation. After locating the bus station (I´m getting really good with the phrase ¨Donde estas la estacion de autobus¨) the key is now I can actually understand the directions they give me. So for 2 soles (60 cents) we join the other locals on the bus to Pisaq. We were fortunate enough to get seats together and this time no Guinni pigs running around. Our time in Pisaq was beautiful... see the attched photos. But it was on the ride back up when we met Lucy.

One should never assume that the bus will drop you off where you picked it up. I soon realized that when the driver was calling Cusco Cusco... the neighborhood around us was not one with travel agencies and tourist shops we are used to. So I introduced myself to Lucy... and she kindly walked with us back to the Plaza de Armas. I learned also from Lucy about the region... and how she has to travel 2 hrs to get to work and lives most days of the week away from home to be close to her job. She is the youngest of 7... and after spending so much time with her nieces and nephews she has no interest in having babies anytime soon. I concurred... being an aunt is perfect!

Although what learned most from Lucy was wow I really can speak Spanish and carry on more than a conversation about directions. Who knew... I guess a combination of 2 years in high school, growing up with the Gersons and dating a Latin boy in college really has paid off.

It even gave me enough confidence to carry on a long conversation with a cute guy we met at dinner last night from Granada, Spain. Had we not had such a long day all over the sacred valley we might have joined him for a night out dancing. Who knows, maybe tonight....

I love hearing from everyone....keep the notes a´comming.
email me

Hasta luego,

Morgan

aventuras por a caballo

Greetings from Huaraz a sleepy town in the Andes where I have decided to begin my Peruvian adventure. Honestly I feel like I´ve been here forever... seeing as I found a hostel that makes great banana pancakes and an instant community (from Israelis to Welsh! no Americans yet, but for those of you who know me well...know this is perfect).

Yesterday a few of us started out quite early (well by Puruvian standards at least) with coffee at Cafe Andino-- the local gringo hangout where after 24 hrs everyone really does know your name. Gabrielle (the French Canadian) had the idea to climb out of the valley we are living in, but this time by horseback. Evelyn (the Dutch girl) had a hook-up and knew of this guy Don Mario who has a ¨stable¨ and could maybe take us riding... so Katarina (the Berliner) and I left our hostel without a shower (since the hot water was out again) and went to meet the group.

In order to cut out the tourist agency of this adventure we had to find the town and location of Don Mario ourselves. So off to find on a colectivo that would take us to Marcara. If you have never traveled in South American let me share with you what a colectivo really is. Take a mini bus that in the states would seat 10 maybe 12 max and here you pack in 25 people (I kid you not) and this morning we even had two Guinna pig stowaways (know as cuy, the local delicacy). People hop on and off in each small town while a guy hangs out the sliding door window trying to sell the non-existent seats left on the bus. And experience not to be missed!

So we jump off in Marcara where the woman on the bus swear Don Mario is to be found. The townspeople send us on a 20 min goose chase only to find out he is actually in a town 10K up the road. This time a taxi brings us up... the taxi also picks up a family of three half way of the road and they smush into the way back (totally normal by the way).

So before we liberated our taxi (the only one to be founds for miles) we find the infamous Don Mario at his ¨stable¨ (otherwise known as 5 horses tied to a tree behind the fruit market) in Chancos. We haggle down the price from 100 to 50 soles each and start on our way.
Five hours of winding our way out of the valley towards to snow peaked mountains through little indigenous villages was fantastic... and much worth the adventure of getting there. The way back was a little less dramatic... for me at least. I was not sitting smushed up next to a man who smelled like a mix of a pig farm and beer bottle. The two other girls were the lucky ones sidling up next for him for the 45 min ride back. Needless to say I gave Katarina the first shower when we returned.

Today I´m off to Lima to meet Becca and then we head to Cusco and the Sacred Valley. Missing you all, but having a blast. Write me soon!

buenos dias,

Morgan

On the road again...

So it's that time of year again where I trade in the blackberry for a backpack and my heels for hiking boots...summer holiday! The perks of being an educator means a real summer trip is actually a reality. For those of you that don't know already.... I'm en route to Peru!

My first entry comes to you from the Admirals Club in the Miami airport. Pretty sheek eh? Complete with the free computers and a cheese buffet! Not to mention the marble bathroom (which I am sure will be the nicest amenities I'll see for a while). How did I get myself in here you ask? No I didn't tip the doorman, but thanks to some extra miles I bumped myself up to Business class and I'll be traveling in style (at least for the next few hours). Lots of miles is one of the perks of going to Poland and Israel as much as I do! However, I can pretty much guarantee that no one else here has booked into a hostel that costs $5.00 for the night they arrive.

Although, I'm still another flight and seven hour bus ride away from seeing that hostel... so wish me luck and here's to hoping I don't get stuck next to a chicken farmer on the bus. Lets hope my Spanish comes back at an exponential rate... as I'll be on my own for a few days until Becca arrives. By then I'm sure I'll be back in my groove bargaining with the locals like a champ.

I'll be cruising Peru for the next three weeks. So... if anyone has been here and has tips to share, please do send them along!

I love hearing from home... so don't forget to email and post comments!

ciao ciao,

Morgan